One Week in Albania: A First-Timer's Itinerary for Tirana, Gjirokastër & the Albanian Riviera
When I first started planning a trip to Albania, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect.
What surprised me most was how easy the country was to navigate. English was widely spoken, people were incredibly friendly, and getting between destinations was far simpler than I anticipated. Over the course of a week, we explored Tirana, wandered the stone streets of Gjirokastër, and relaxed along the Albanian Riviera.
While the beaches lived up to the hype, the biggest surprise of the trip was Gjirokastër. The UNESCO-listed town felt completely different from both Tirana and the coast. With its stone architecture, mountain backdrop, and sweeping valley views, it was the destination I found myself thinking about long after returning home.
If you're planning your first trip to Albania, here's the exact itinerary I would recommend, along with a few things I learned along the way.
Why Visit Albania?
Albania offers a unique combination of:
Stunning Mediterranean beaches
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Friendly locals
Dramatic mountain scenery
Affordable prices
Fewer crowds than many neighboring destinations
For the best experience, I recommend visiting during late May, early June, or September. We visited at the end of May and found it to be the perfect balance of warm weather, lower prices, and fewer crowds. Many seasonal businesses had just opened for the summer, and some of the country's most beautiful destinations still felt remarkably quiet.
Albania Travel Tips Before You Go
Bring Cash
Although credit cards are becoming more widely accepted, Albania remains a surprisingly cash-oriented destination.
It's a good idea to carry Albanian Lek, especially when visiting smaller towns, beach bars, family-run restaurants, or local shops. Many tourism-focused businesses will also accept Euros, but you'll generally get the best exchange rate and value when paying in local currency.
Download the Patoko App
Patoko is Albania's local ride-hailing app and can be incredibly useful in Tirana and other larger cities. Think of it as Albania's version of Uber.
Private Transfers Are Worth It
One of the best decisions we made was using private transfers between destinations. They're relatively affordable compared to Western Europe and eliminate the stress of navigating unfamiliar roads.
We used Albania by Eden throughout our trip and found the service reliable, easy to arrange, and well worth the cost. If you're traveling with a group, private transfers can be surprisingly cost-effective and allow you to enjoy the scenery without worrying about driving.
If You Plan to Drive Yourself
Driving in Albania is entirely possible, but visitors should know that there is a noticeable police presence on major roads throughout the country.
We frequently saw police vehicles and traffic enforcement, although we encountered very few formal checkpoints. Be sure to pay attention to speed limits and local driving regulations.
A New Airport Is Planned for the Riviera
A new international airport is planned near Vlore, which could significantly improve access to the Albanian Riviera in the coming years. For now, most international visitors arrive via Tirana International Airport.
Day 1: Explore Tirana
Most visitors begin their Albania itinerary in Tirana, the country's energetic and rapidly evolving capital city.
Start your day in Skanderbeg Square before exploring:
National Historical Museum
The Pyramid of Tirana
Pazari i Ri Market
Grand Park
House of Leaves
Dajti Express Cable Car
Bunk'Art
As someone coming from New York City, Tirana felt surprisingly small. That said, I enjoyed it far more than I expected. The city combines colorful architecture, a fascinating history, excellent cafés, and a youthful energy that makes it enjoyable to explore for a day or two.
Cocktails at Dante
Before dinner, head to Dante for cocktails. It's an excellent place to start your evening and one of the city's most stylish bars.
Dinner at Mullixhiu
One of the standout dining experiences of our trip was Mullixhiu.
Often considered one of Albania's most acclaimed restaurants, Mullixhiu focuses on traditional Albanian ingredients and recipes while presenting them in a modern way. We opted for the tasting menu, which provided a thoughtful introduction to regional flavors and local ingredients. If you're looking for one special meal in Tirana, this would be my recommendation.
After dinner, spend some time wandering through Blloku, the neighborhood once reserved for Albania's communist elite and now one of the city's most vibrant nightlife districts.
Day 2: Lake Bovilla and More Tirana
One of the most popular day trips from Tirana is Lake Bovilla and the hike to Gamti Summit.
The hike is relatively short but rewards visitors with panoramic views over the reservoir and surrounding mountains. It's one of the most scenic viewpoints near the capital and well worth the effort.
Day 3: Tirana to Gjirokastër
The drive south toward Gjirokastër takes approximately three hours.
Along the way, consider stopping at Uji i Ftohtë, a beautiful spring-fed area known for its crystal-clear water and peaceful setting.
Continue on to Gjirokastër, one of Albania's most impressive UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Known as the "City of Stone," Gjirokastër is famous for its Ottoman architecture, steep cobblestone streets, and dramatic hillside setting. If I had to choose a favorite destination from the trip, this would be it. The town felt completely different from both Tirana and the Riviera and, at times, reminded me more of Switzerland than the Mediterranean.
A quick stop at Uji i Ftohtë was one of the most scenic breaks on the drive to Gjirokastër.
Explore Gjirokastër Castle
The highlight of any visit is Gjirokastër Castle.
The fortress offers incredible panoramic views across the Drino Valley and surrounding mountains. Walking along the castle walls provides some of the best photo opportunities in southern Albania.
One of the more unusual attractions inside the castle grounds is a retired U.S. Navy aircraft. The exact story behind how the plane ended up in Albania remains debated and has become part of local lore tied to the Cold War era.
Wander the Old Bazaar
The Old Bazaar is filled with stone streets, artisan shops, cafés, and viewpoints that seem to appear around every corner.
Dinner at Te Fuçitë (The Barrels)
For dinner, consider Te Fuçitë (The Barrels), a winery and restaurant located just outside the city. The setting is beautiful, with views overlooking the surrounding countryside.
Day 4: Gjirokastër to Dhermi
Today you'll head toward the Albanian Riviera.
Arrive in Dhermi and spend the afternoon relaxing by the sea.
Days 5-6: Enjoy Dhermi and the Albanian Riviera
Dhermi is one of the most popular destinations along the Albanian Riviera.
The water was every bit as clear as what I've experienced in Greece, while many of the beaches reminded me more of Croatia because of their pebbled shoreline. One thing that surprised me was how rough the sea could become at times compared to what I expected.
Boat Tour with Himara Seas
One of the highlights of our entire trip was a boat excursion with Himara Seas.
Visit Grama Bay
If there's one place on the Albanian Riviera that lives up to the hype, it's Grama Bay.
We visited in late May and had the bay almost entirely to ourselves. The crystal-clear turquoise water and dramatic cliffs made it one of the most memorable places we visited during the trip.
If I had to choose one place that captured the beauty of the Albanian Riviera, it would be Grama Bay.
Sunset Dinner at Zoe Hora
For a memorable dinner, reserve a table at Zoe Hora and arrive well before sunset.
Perched high above the coastline, the restaurant offers sweeping views over the Ionian Sea. Watching the sun sink into the water from this vantage point was one of my favorite moments of the trip.
Perched high above Dhermi, Zoe Hora combines great views with an unforgettable sunset.
Breakfast or Lunch at Luciano
Luciano is another stop worth making during the day.
The restaurant offers spectacular views of the sea. It's also home to the giant decorative fork that has become a popular photo stop for visitors exploring Dhermi.
A Note About Construction Along the Riviera
Social media often portrays the Albanian Riviera as untouched paradise.
While the scenery is stunning, visitors should understand that the region is developing rapidly. New hotels, apartment buildings, roads, and tourism infrastructure are visible throughout parts of the coast.
Despite the ongoing development, I still found the Riviera incredibly beautiful. The beaches, mountains, and crystal-clear water continue to make this one of Europe's most compelling emerging destinations.
Alternative Stop: Berat
Instead of driving directly back to Tirana, consider stopping in Berat, another UNESCO World Heritage Site often called the "City of a Thousand Windows."
A stop here adds another layer of Albanian history and culture while breaking up the drive back to Tirana.
Three Things I'd Tell Anyone Visiting Albania
Visit in May or September
Late May was the perfect time to visit. The weather was warm, prices were reasonable, and crowds were minimal.
Don't Expect an Undeveloped Coastline
The Albanian Riviera is beautiful, but it is also growing quickly. Setting realistic expectations will help you appreciate what makes the region special.
Spend More Time in Gjirokastër
If I were planning this trip again, I would consider reducing my time in Tirana and adding an extra night in or near Gjirokastër. The town is small, but it provides easy access to the Blue Eye, beautiful mountain scenery, and some of the most distinctive architecture in the country.
Final Thoughts
Albania exceeded my expectations.
Whether you're exploring the castle walls of Gjirokastër, wandering Tirana's colorful streets, or swimming in the crystal-clear waters of Grama Bay, Albania offers a combination of history, scenery, and value that is increasingly difficult to find elsewhere in Europe.
If you're looking for your next Mediterranean adventure, now is a great time to visit. Reach out to start planning your adventure today.
